Featured image credit: Dr. Paul Koudounaris
For being a literal wasteland, the deserts of California have a lot of unusual sites in them. We’ve covered a few of them on this very blog. Remember the rust-colored steel sculptures of Galleta Meadows in Anza Borrego? What about the Invisible House and the Mirage House? Or the communal absurdity of the Mojave phone booth? Then there’s the eerie audience of Death Valley’s Amargosa Opera House. Today’s arid oddity is also in Death Valley, though about 70 miles away on the western side of the treacherous park. It’s an unforgiving area, daunting all but the most intrepid of hikers. Here, in 1952, a US Air Force Grumman HU-16 Albatross seaplane, commissioned by the CIA, crashed into Towne Peak, the highest point of the Cottonwood Mountains. And an astonishing amount of that wreckage remains there today… the reward at the end of one of the most rigorous Death Valley hikes.
How a CIA Plane Ended Up in Death Valley
Evening was falling over Panamint Springs on Thursday, January 24, 1952. But the silence of the chill Mojave night was broken as the Albatross made its way over the Cottonwoods. While the seaplane belonged to the Air Force’s 580th Air Resupply Squadron, the CIA was using it for a training exercise. Or so they say… this is the CIA, after all. Earlier in the day, the pilot and five passengers had boarded the plane and taken off from Mountain Home Air Force Base, about an hour’s drive outside of Boise, Idaho. While they were destined for San Diego, they wouldn’t make it. At least not that evening.
The Albatross was maintaining an altitude of 11,000 feet (3,352 meters) when its port engine burst into flames. Perhaps fearing that the remaining engine would soon fail as well, the pilot ordered passengers to parachute down into the unforgiving Mojave below. All six occupants made it out as the Albatross continued its unplanned descent over the Cottonwood Mountains. Remarkably, each of the plane’s occupants landed safely and without injury.
Moments later, at around 6:30pm, the Albatross seaplane collided with a rocky ridge, landing in a fiery heap on Towne Peak, the tallest of the Cottonwoods at around 7,271 feet (2,216 meters). The Albatross slid down the loosened gravel of Towne Peak, coming to rest ominously above Dolomite Canyon.
The Surprising Condition of the Albatross
Once they got their bearings, the pilot and his crew hiked 14 miles through the dead of night across the rigorous terrain to nearby Furnace Creek. An impressive feat, but then again, these were likely CIA agents in training. If the rumors are to be believed, they immediately grabbed a drink at the local watering hole. At some point, the CIA deployed representatives to the crash site to collect any classified materials that survived the wreckage. They deemed the remains too cumbersome for removal from such a remote area. Therefore, the majority of the shattered Albatross remains embedded in the side of Towne Peak to this day.
Even in the remoteness of the Mojave Desert, 70 years is a long time. Yet, in spite of storms, wind, and the hands of time, the remains of the Albatross seem to have benefitted from isolation in the desert. The few who make it out to the wreckage report that it’s in shockingly good condition. Well, good condition for a plane crash. Even with the wind blowing refuse into the nearby Dolomite Canyon, its stunning to walk up on the instantly recognizable, albeit shattered, seaplane.
Why This is One of the Toughest Death Valley Hikes
But the decent condition of the Albatross crash is a testament to the severity of the hike that leads to it. A few of the factors that could make this one of the toughest Death Valley hikes for all but the most experienced hikers include:
- Weather: Death Valley National Park has recorded some of the hottest temperatures the world has experienced, and you’ll find no shade on this hike. The higher altitude can also bring exceedingly cold conditions.
- Distance: The round trip hike runs approximately 10 miles.
- Terrain: Unforgiving mountain terrain persists for the majority of the hike. Hikers will need to navigate loose gravel, troublesome boulders, and sometimes even concealing snow.
- Elevation: With repeated ascents and descents, hikers can look forward to a total of approximately 4,000 feet in elevation gain.
- Route: There is no clear path or trail to the site.
Right out the gate, hikers can expect a rough time. A roughly 400-foot incline of lava rock greets the daring right from the parking area. Without the guidance of a trail, the intrepid few are left to find their own way to the plane wreckage. Depending on an individual’s navigation skills, this could mean having to find ways around boulders barring passage or up slopes slippery with loose gravel. Navigation gets refreshingly clearer when hikers mount the first peak, granting a first glimpse of the crash site. However, even this sight creates a deceptive impression that the plane is closer than it is. With constantly shifting elevation, it can be a challenge to surpass a pace of a single mile per hour.
Finding a Way to the Crash Site
Even with a feel for the site’s direction, the path forward can be intimidating with its near lack of landmarks. Yes, near lack. Observant hikers may catch sight of the odd geological survey. Then, there are the duo of old ammo cache boxes. The first ammo box explorers find is stuffed with hiker registration slips dating back to 1967. The second doesn’t appear until the last slippery descent to the crash site. Pausing for the second cache box rewards hikers with additional registry slips, an ancient canteen with what we hope is water inside, and expired emergency food rations that could be the most lethal part of the journey.
Planning for the Most Brutal of Death Valley Hikes
Anyone attempting a hike out to the Albatross wreckage should plan accordingly. There is only a brief window of opportunity when the weather isn’t too hot or snowy to optimally make the journey. Highly experienced hikers have made the full trip in as little as eight hours, but it will take most hikers considerably longer. This means leaving early in the morning because the hike becomes considerably more dangerous in the dark. Needless to say, hikers should also bring plenty of water and appropriate hiking gear.
