Photo credit: Jengod
What does a city so reliant on automobiles need with public staircases? Still, you’ll find them scattered inconspicuously all across the city from Pacific Palisades to Echo Park and Pasadena to Silver Lake. These remnants of old LA are often referred to as “secret stairs” though this is more a result of circumstance than any clandestine effort. They’re just not needed in quite the same way they were when they were created. Therefore, it can be easy to overlook them. Especially those obscured by chaparral, fencing, and the like. Some of these secret stairs stand alone. Others work in conjunction with neighboring sets of hidden stairs to create an intricate network of vertical shortcuts. Let’s take a closer look at LA’s secret stair phenomenon.
The Diverse Benefits of LA’s Secret Stairs
At one time, the secret stairs were less of a secret and more of a common way of life for commuting Angelenos. The majority of the staircases were installed into the city’s rapidly developing framework in the early 1900s. Their purpose? To assist citizens in trekking up and down the hills to the Pacific Electric Transit System of Red Cars running at street level. These trolley cars were suited to the busy streets, but without the assistance of these public staircases, getting to them could be a challenge.
These days, the secret stairs of Los Angeles don’t have quite the same urgency. But they still serve a purpose. Hikers who want a truly legendary leg day but don’t have time to drive over to one of the city’s numerous parks often settle for the nearest set of secret stairs. Even amidst financial hardship when gym memberships become an unattainable luxury, the stairs help to keep citizens fit. And, depending on which stairs you choose, you can often find a unique view of the city waiting for you at the top.
Stairways With Character
In true LA fashion, the secret stairs are rarely nondescript stairways ascending to heavens unknown through alleyways between tight residences. Each holds its own distinct character which can make tracking them down and tackling them feel like a collectible moment.
Some are painted. Others are raw and uneven barely-cut slabs of rock. Some have architectural flourishes in their guardrails. Others don’t even offer guardrails all the way up. Some are on the short side (if you consider over 100 steps short). Others seem to stretch on forever. The longest secret stairs are the ones leading up to the spray-painted remnants of Murphy Ranch in Pacific Palisades. Measuring 529 steps, the Murphy Ranch Stairs are not for the uninitiated.
Silver Lake’s Stair Empire
The Silver Lake area has the highest proliferation of secret stairs in the city, likely owing to its proximity to downtown and its steep, hilly terrain. Its offerings are also among some of the most iconic. Case in point: The Music Box Steps which provided the setting for one of the most enduring moments in classic Hollywood comedy. Immortalized in Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy’s 1932 Academy Award-winning short, The Music Box, the stairs consistently foiled the slapstick duo’s attempts at moving a piano. Visit the Music Box Steps and you’ll even find a plaque commemorating the site at the third step of the 133-stair climb.
Silver Lake is also the site of the Micheltorena Stairs, possibly the most photographed secret stairs in the city. Instantly recognizable thanks to Corinne Carey’s vibrantly painted hearts and bands laid down in 2013, the Micheltorena Stairs have brightened up countless Instagrams. And since they’re a pretty good workout too, they technically classify as functional art.
Charles Fleming’s Indispensable Research
Tracking down all of the city’s secret stairs would be a daunting task if not for the colossal efforts of Charles Fleming. His book, Secret Stairs: A Walking Guide to the Historic Staircases of Los Angeles, has become the guidebook for a cross-section of exercise enthusiasts and historians seeking to experience each of the unique fixtures. Particularly during the pandemic, Fleming’s meticulous research provided diversion and solace, prompting stir-crazy Angelenos to instead go stair-crazy. Fleming works the secret stairs into looping walks that range from 1.5 to 3.5 miles.
Prior to publishing his book in 2010, Fleming got to know the secret stairs through regular visits and community walks. He even used to host such walks through his Facebook. A glance at his Facebook today reveals that he’s been traveling the world in recent years, finding secret stairs all across the globe. In 2020, Fleming released a third edition of his book with updated information. We recommend picking up a copy before taking on the secret stairs for yourself.
Seeing the Secret Stairs for Yourself
The secret stairs are particularly interesting in a city of millions all on their own journeys, some moving up into the golden sunlight, others descending downward into shadow. Though the stairs exist as portals, they are worthy destinations unto themselves. If you should find yourself wanting to experience these quintessential icons of LA, just make sure to bring a bottle or two of water! Even the shortest climbs can be a workout!
